HoUinger Corp. 
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The Bee-keepers' Ten-cent Library. No. 21. 




opy 1 










FACTS 

A B O U 1 

BEES 






. . or. . 

The Danzenbaker Hive 
and its Management 

Profusely illustrated 
from photographs 
especially prepared 
for the zvork :: :: 

By E. R. ROOT 

Published by The A. I. Root Co., Medina, Ohio 




I 




■i 



14th Edition. Copyrighted 1907 by The A. I. Root Co. 



TOt?[ 



i'*^' "^'^0 



^ARY of CONGRESS 
10 eooies Received 

lAY 27 i9or 

Cftpyright Ef^ 
ii% 'CL XXc, NO. 
OQPYB. 



loAV Root's Bee-keepers' Supplies 
e Regarded by a Large Illinois Firm 



A. I. Root Co., June -l^th, 1906. 

Medina, Ohio. 
Gentlemen: — I have just finished unpacking the 
last box of supplies, and must say they dre very satis- 
factory. The frames especially are extra fine, and I 
am just wondering how I was so foolish as to buy 
the thousands I already have from that other firm. 

After seeing yours, I have made up my mind that 
I would much rather buy yours than take theirs for 
a gift. 

This is no jolly, but the simple truth. 
Very truly yours, 

.James Tough, 
•••,1<513 Clarence Ave., 
•..'•• Oak Park, 111. 



PUBLISHERS' PREFACE AND INTRODUCTION 



In putting out this little work the publishers believe 
that the shallow hive with closed-end frame and 4x5 
plain section is not sufficiently well understood. It was 
with this end in view that they have endeavored to 
correct some popular misapprehensions, and at the same 
time show that some bee-keepers at least, may be los- 
ing much by clinging to their old-fashioned methods. 
Besides, the hive and system herein described have 
been sufficiently tested so that it is believed that every 
statement herein made will be verified by actual work 
wi!.h the bees. 

As there may be some to whom this work will go 
who may not understand the first principles of bee- 
keeping, it has been thought best to give very briefly 
the life-history of the honey-bee, closing with a de- 
scription of the methods of management. 

If the reader is entirely unfamiliar with the subject 
of bee-keeping it is suggested that he reads parts II 
and III and then part I. Having done so he 
will then be able to comprehend some of the points 
made in favor of the shallow hive and closed-end frame 
of the Danzenbaker type as set forth in part I. 

In this connection it may be well to state that the 
publishers also issue a booklet on the divisible-brood- 
chamber hive that permits of a system of management 
similar to that herein described. The price of thi^ 
little work is 10 cents. Another booklet is on the sub- 
ject of the Dovetailed Langstroth hive and Hofifman 
frame. This latter work describes the hive more com- 
monly in use by bee-keepers generally. Should the 



reader have a large nnmlDer of these hives he would do 
well to send for this booklet, as it will enable him to 
understand the reasons for its construction as well 
as how to handle it. 

It is advised that those who desire to go into the 
general sul)ject of bee-keeping more extendedly pro- 
cure a copy of the A B C of Bee Culture,, a cyclopedia 
on bees, of over 500 pages. As the general subject of 
lee-keeping is a very large one, it is impossible in 
these brief booklets to do more than merely touch on 
some of the important phases of bee culture. If any 
one has any bees at all he will do well to secure not 
only the booklets above mentioned, but the larger work, 
the A B C of Bee Culture. Then if he desires to keep 
abreast of the times he would do well to subscribe 
for our journal. Gleanings in Bee Culture, an illus- 
trated semi-monthly magazine devoted to bees. It con- 
tains a great deal of matter for beginners as well as 
for the veteran in the business. Price $1.00 per year. 

April 5, 1907. The A. I. Root Co., 

Medina. Ohio. 



Part I 

THE DANZENBAKER HIVE 



The Danzenbaker hive in its present form has been 
en the market since 1895. It may be truthfully said 




that it has successfully passed the period of experimen- 
tation, and has now come to be recognized as one of 



4 Facts About Bees 

the standards. When it was first introduced, the bee- 
keeping world was not prepared io accept it. It was 
considered too revolutionary; it was not needed; but 
in spite of these objections the inventor, Mr. Franci:', 
Danzenbaker, then at Washington, D. C, persistently 
clung to the hive until he had one large manufacturer 
take hold of it and push it, but not till he had demon- 
strated that it had merits peculiar to itself. Durin-? 
tlie last few years bee-keepers everywhere have been 
taking hold of it. 




EMPTY DANZENBAKER HIVE 



[Showing division-board, i" ranges, and the manner of their ."^up- 
port in the hive.] 



The Oue^ion of Depth 

The hive bearing his name uses the same kind of 
cover and bottom as are used on the regular ten-frame 
Langstroth. Any super or super combination that 
will fit standard L. hives can be used on the Danzen- 
baker. He, however, adopted a shallower brood-nest 



Facts About Bees 5 

by 1^4 inches, and ten closed-end reversible frames 
supported in the center. He early observed that an 
ordinary colony of bees would place about two inches 
of honey above the brood in a Langstroth frame. He 




HETHERINGTON-QUINBY CLuSKD-KNL> FRAME AND HIVE 

reasons that, if this honey were crowded up into the 
supers by making a frame of less depth, such honey 
would bring the highest market price; and if the bees 
required feeding after the season was over, a cheap 



Tacts About Bees 

syrup costing 3 or 31,-^ cents per pound could be sub- 
stituted for 15-cent honey. He accordingly reduced 
the depth of his frame at the very start to 7^/^ inches 
instead of g''4], as in the regular standard Langstrotb.. 




^\ 



vXj 



._A 



.-^g.^.,^ 



m. 'L.^ .tJ 




»uini:y fraisies 



iia.\;^.ll-;d 



Closed-end vs. Open-end Frames 

Mr. Danzcnbaker l:)elicves, also, from extended obser, 
vation and from general inquiry among bee-keepers 
who have tested the matter carefully, that a large 
amount of colony heat was dissipated between the end- 
bars of the frames in the ordinary Langstroth hive. 
In talking with the users of the open-end frame he 
found that they readily admitted this loss of heat. 



Facts About Bees 7 

but concluded that what could not be helped would 
have to be endured. Idiey would not tolerate the old 
Quinby closed-end frame — oh, no ! — because they ar- 
gued that would smash bees, and it would take a 
crozvhar, after the bees had glued them together, to 
get them apart. 

Mr. Danzenbaker went quietly to work experiment- 
ing, and found that neither assertion proved true in 
practice — ^or, rather, it would be more accurate to say 
that there was no necessity whatever for smashing 
bees ; and so far as the difficulty of separating the 
frames was concerned, this was more in their imagina- 
tion than in reality. 

On visiting some of the most extensive bee-keepers 
in the country, who used such frames exclusively, he 
was gratified to learn that his own experience was con- 




now THE DANZENBAKER FRAME IS SUPPORTED ON THE 
CLEATS IN THE HIVE-ENDS 



firmed. He found that it was no new thing for these 
men to handle colonies by the thousands on closed-end 
frames ; and when anybody talked to them about such 
frames being "awful bee-smashers" they laughed at 
the very idea. Actual demonstration developed that 
they could handle their frames in pairs and in groups 
like so many chunks of cordwood. They could pull 
the brood-nest all to pieces ; they could perform any 
one of the hundred and one manipulations without 
killing a bee, and yet, what was more surprising, be 
able to do just as much work (and in some cases more) 



8 Facts About Bees 

as those who were users of the old-fashioned open- 
end Langstroth frame. The evidence was overwhehning. 
After settling on the depth of the hive, Mr. Danzen- 
baker adopted a modified form of the closed-end Quinby 
each frame supported by a pivot in the center of each 
end-bar. He early realized the value of the old say- 
ing, "While you are getting, get a plenty." He saw 
that, if a frame were supported in the center, such 
frame would be reversible — that is, it could be used 
either side up. 

The Value of the Reversible Feature in Frames 

Old bee-keepers know perfectly well, that, with the 
ordinary top-supported or non-reversible frames, the 
bees will build their comlis to within half an inch of the 
bottom-bar and there stop. This results in a waste 
of comb space, a waste of lumber that is not utilized, 
and, what is worse, makes a splendid hiding-place 




THE REVERSING FEATT KIC Ol THE DANZENBAKER, MAKES IT 

POSSIBLE TO HAVE ALL COMBS SOLID, WITHOUT ANY SPACE 

BETWEEN BOTTOM OF COMB AND END-BAR 

where the queen may secrete herself when the apiarist 
is hunting for her. This can be overcome after a fash- 
ion in various ways by using full sheets of foundation 
and perpendicular wiring; but even then bees wU be in- 
clined to leave holes near the bottom edge, and it is 



Facts About Bees - 9 

in these holes that the queen finds peculiar delight and 
secretes herself. 

But there is still another objection — a new comb 
supported at the top and part way down the sides of 
the end-bars is liable to fall out through handling or 
extracting; and on a hot day it may melt down, 
bringing loss and destruction to a portion of the brood- 
nest. In more ways than one it will be seen that it is 
very desirable to have this air-gap or waste space filled 
with good comb, thus making comb attachments at top 
and bottom as well as on the end-bars, and no hiding- 
place for Mrs. Queen. 

By this time the reader v.'ill readily infer that, by 
reversing the frame for a few days in a warm season, 
the bees will fill up this air-gap or waste space be- 
tween the bottom edge of the comb and the bottom-bar 
with new comb, for it is a well-recognized law in 
bee economy that a comb that does not quite reach 
a support just above will be built upward until the 
attachment is made ; but not so when the comb doesn't 
reach the support below. 

Taking advantage of this instinct in nature we can 
very readily make comb attachments all around by 
reversing a frame like the Danzenbaker, and have 
combs as solid, smooth, and perfect as so many 
boards. Nor is this all. A reversible moderately 
shallow frame does not require wiring as do the other 
deeper ones supported from the top. The reason of 
this is obvious, for a comb that has solid attachments 
to all four sides of the frame will be secured much 
more solidly than one that is fastened to the top-bar 
and half way down on each of the end-bars. 

Still another fact. This reversing feature makes 
it possible to throw the honey in the top of the frames 
that may be left over from spring or summer into the 
s'.ipers, by turning the frames upside down, for the 
bees will not allow honey to be stored near the entrance 
or bottom-board, to remain there for fear of robbers. 
This gives added room for the queen. 

And, lastly, the fact that a non-reversible frame 
will have in most cases waste space at the bottom not 
utilized, and a reversible frame all the space filled 



10 Facts About Bees 

with comb, goes to show that the former is really 
larger for a given depth, and is therefore more 
efficient. 

But we ]ia\e scarcel^• touched on the loss of heat that 
radiates awa\- from the clu^^tcr when the ends of the 




A DANZENBAKER REVERSIBLE AND A HOFFMAN NON-REVERSIBLE 
FRAME 

[Notice in the lower frame that there is a space between the bot- 
tom of the comb and the bottom-bar that the b es won 't fill. In the 
upper, uanzenbaker frame, there is no such space for the fiame 
has been reversed long enough for the bees to fill up this space.] 

frames are left open. It is not unusual to have a 
regular closed-end frame with brood cVar out to the 
end-bars; but it is rathei the exception to have it reach 



Facts About Bees 



11 



out that far when the ends are open so that chilling 
currents can circulate around, thereby chilling the 
young brood. 

It is another principle in bee-hive economy that the 
bees strive to have their brood-nest as near 98 degrees 
as possible. If there is a chance for warm air to 
escape, the bees are compelled to contract the cluster, 
overfeeding on their honey in order to keep up animal 
}:eat and thus the brood-nest warm. The tighter nnd 
warmer this brood-nest can be, the fewer bees will b- 
required to protect the brood, and the smaller the 



Notice that the 
space betiveen the 
end- bars of these 
frames are not 
closed atid, hence, 
the heat of the 
cluster, so vital in 
brood-rearing, will 
be dissipated. Tl is 
can not occur in the 
type of frame'", 
shown on page I'i, 
and succeeding 
Images. 



OPEN-END FRAMES 




consumption of stores. But this is not all. Experi- 
ence shows that bees will build up faster and betsrr 
in the spring on closed-end frames than in the other 
condition where the space is open at the ends of the 
combs ; and if they can do better work in brood-rearing 
in chilly or raw weather, they will certainly winter 
better in cold severe weather ; and there are not want- 
ing facts to show it. In the latitude of 40 degrees and 
under, the Danzenbaker hive will winter outdoors b'^- 
cause of the closed-end frames and generally warmer 



12 



Facts About Bees 



construction than the ordinary single-walled hives with 
open frames. 

Many a bee-keeper who, havmg started to use open- 
end frames, has expressed the wish that he could get 
the protection of the closed-end frames. Most of 
them admit that such frames are w^armer, and most 
of them wish they were able to take advantage of 
the closed-end frame feature of warmth without having 
to throw away their entire investment in the other 
hives. 

This booklet will go to thousands of bee-keepers who 
are just starting in business; and it is of prime impor- 
tance that tJicy start right. A cold hive means a large 
consumption of stores, a larger sugar-bill for feeding 
in the fall, winter losses from dysentery d;;e to over- 
feeding, and a consequent reduction of profit in the 
business. 

But the reader will inquire whether it is necessary to 
put on additional protection above latitude of 40. We 
would advise it in most cases ; but a further considera- 
tion of this subject will be found under the head of 
"Wintering in the Danzenbaker Hive," a little further 
on. 

The Manner of Supporting the Frame 




We have discussed the value of the closed-end 
versus the open-end frames in bee-hive construction. 



Facts About Bees 13 

The question comes up, "How shall these frames be 
placed in the hive?" This was another mooted ques- 
tion with Mr. Danzenbaker; but he solved it very 
nently by inserting a headed pin in the center of each 
of the end-bars. This he made the subject of a patent. 
But in making his frame reversible he put his support 
at such a point that there is but little or no danger of 
killing bees. A hanger cleat, a little less in widt'.i 
than the depth of the hive, is nailed on the inside of the 
ends of the hive body. The ordinary way of support- 
ing closed-end frames is to put such support in the 
form of a strip of metal at the bottom, under the 
frames. This is tacked to the inside edge of the super 
or hive. When the frames are inserted they are almost 
sure to crowd bees down under the ends of the end- 
bars, mashing them betv.een the end-bar and the metpl 



! # 

Banmsm I 




IMETHOD OF SUSPENDING DA' ZI-.NBAKER P'RAMES BY THE 
CENTERPINS. 



support beneath ; but with the center-pin support, the 
apiarist can see exactly what he is doing; and as the 
point of contact is very narrow he is not liable to kill 



14 



Facts About Bees 



any bees, even if he takes no pains to avoid doing so. 
Mr. Danzenbaker also considered it important to 
put in a follower or division-ljoard. The hive is, there- 
fore, made wide enough to accommodate it and ten 
frames. In the case of a very weak colony this fol- 
lower may be removed from the outside and placed 
next to the frame or frames containing the cluster of 
bees. This enables th.e apiarist to confine the heat to 
tlie cluster; as the cluster enlarges the follower may 
shove over and so on till the colony entirely tills the 
hive. 

A Variable Entrance 

We have now described fully the inside structure »,' 
the brood-nest, and the reasons for its special con- 
struction. Carrying out the principle of conserving tlu 
heat of the brood-nest, the Danzenbaker bottom-board 
is so constructed that the entrance can be made large 
or small by changing the adjustment of the alighting- 
board. When the weather is very warm, and a new 
swarm has been hived in the brood-nest, it is desirable 




to provide lor a large amount of ventilation. The 
aiighting-board is then drawn out entirely and placed 
in front of the hive, leaving an opening i^ inches deep 
by the full width of the hive. After the swarm hris 
quieted down, and less ventilation is required the plain 
side of the alighting-board is placed upward, one ed2,e 
being pushed into the slot on either side of the side- 
rails of the bottom. This gives an entrance % deep 
by the width of the hive. When the robbing season 
comes on, or cool weather makes it desirable to reduce 



Facts About Bees 15 

the size of the opening, the ahghting-board may be 
pulled out, turned the other side up, and the edges 



r 



DANZENBAKER HIVE-ENTRANCK FULL WIDTH 

reversed. When it is in position this will give a re- 
duced entrance ^x8 inch, and will even then be small 
enough for outdoor wintering. 

The general construction of the bottom-board as a 
whole is very light, and scientifically braced. 



The Danzenbaker Comb-Honey Super 




When this was first introduced it was a wide de- 
parture from comb-honey appliance in general use, 



16 Facts About Bees 

Although some features of it were not new, the prin- 
ciples had been in use by bee-keepers of extended ex- 
perience for ten or fifteen years previous. Mr. Dan- 
zcnbaker observed that the existing size of section 
among bee-keepers generally was 4^4 inches square and 
very nearl}^ 2 inches thick. This made a bulky comb 
of comparatively small amount of surface for display. 
In nature we find that the average of the combs arc 
such that they can be used either, in brood-rearing or 
for the storage of honey. x\s such, they are only % 
thick. The more we compel the bees to deviate from 
their regular preferred practice, the more they will be 
disinclined at times to enter the sections, no matter how 
much we desire them to do so. Mr. Danzenbaker 
found that Captain J. E. Hetherington, at that time the 
most extensive bee-keeper in the world (by the way, he 
used closed-end frames), was selling a section that was 
37/^x5, and which held approximately a pound. This 
made a box taller than broad. He also learned that 
quite a number of prominent bee-keepers, including Mr. 
G. M. Doolittle, whose fame as a honey-producer is 
known the world around, was producing a section of 
similar proportions. In some of Eastern markets at 
least, Mr. Danzenbaker observed that these sections 
were outselling the square ones, and bringing a higher 
price. Inciuiry revealed the fact that the consumer 
v/ould take the tall section, not only because it had a 
more pleasing appearance, because it conformed in 
shape to most of the grocery packages, but that these 
tall sections actually looked .larger, although they did 
not hold any more honey than the square ones. When 
he picked on the size of his section he adopted even 
inches. 4x5. 

About this time the plain sections without beeways 
were coming to the front, and he was quick to see 
that honey in such sections looked better filled, and 
he therefore adopted as a standard for his hive the 
size of 4x5, plain, without beeways, 1^4. wide or thick. 
This would give him a comb very nearly nature's 
apparently preferred thickness and very nearly an even 
pound in weight. 



Facts About Bees 



17 



When he put this honey on the market in Washing- 
ton the grocers complained that they could not sel! 
their 4^ stock until the 4x5 Danzenbaker plain sections 
were out of sight. The same experience was found 




SQUARE vs. TALL SECTIONS 

[Both hold the same weight of honey and both cost the same to 
produce, but tall section sells formore money in many markets.] 

in other cities. In a word, Mr. Danzenbaker struck out 
from the old beaten path of 4^ beeway sections, and be- 
gan to talk the advantages of the same weight of comb 
with a larger surface and more pleasing appearance. 



The Style of Comb-Honey Sedtion 

In the meantime he set himself ardently at work 
discovering the essential principles of comb-honey pro- 
duction. One of those principles was a warm super, and 
yet one that would give free communication from one 
section to another. The accompanying illustrations 
show the super with the fences, or separators, and the 
plain sections, and another illustration shows the 4% 
section square and the 4x5 side by side. Unless one 
were told to the contrary, he would naturally suppose 



18 Facts About Bees 

that the tall section was the larger. If they were 
sold at the same price he would take the large one of 
course. He would still take it if it sold for two or 
three cents more a pound. But the difference in ap- 
parent size is not the only one. A customer, without 
knowing it, prefers an oblong package — taller than 
broad. In our general architecture we are accustomed 
to see doors and windows of such proportions. In 
the groceries, most of the packages are of this shape. 
Then why should not bee-keepers cater to the same 
fashions and demand especially if the customer is 
willing to pay for it? 

Another principle that Mr. Danzenbaker had im- 
pressed upon him was that it was important to have 




EtILARGED VlE'^ 



DANZENBAKER SUPER 

[The sections or honey-boxes are held in holders E; the fence is 
shown at C, C; and the spring to produce compression, at B.J 

the sections and separators or fences squeezed tightly 
together in the super. In fact, the need of this is 
recognized by all comb-honey producers. Wherever 
there is an open crack or gap between the hive parts, the 
bees chink in bee-glue, making it necessary for the 
bee-keeper to do a lot of scraping in order to make his 
nice pearly-white sections look presentable for the 
counter. Something to cause a yielding pressure — a 



Facts About Bees 



19 



pressure that will adapt itself to the swelling and 
shrinkage of the wood, is imperative. 

At the apiary of Capt. J. E. Hetherington, to 
whom reference has already been made, Mr. Danzen- 
baker saw a curved steel spring that was pushed down 
between the sections and the sides of the super. Two 
or more would be used according to the number of 
the cleats on the separators or fences, and the general 
construction of the supers. The Hetherington spring 
was finally adopted by the manufacturers of the hive! 
and it is now used in the Danzenbaker supers, and 
nothmg else has been found to be so useful, nor half 
so good for the money. 

The Cover for the Danzenbaker Hive 

We now have left only the cover. This in its more 
smiple form is made of three boards and two cleats, 
combined in such a way as to make a very stiff, ser- 



L 



m- 



FIG.l 




viceable weather-tight hive-lid. But Air. Danzenbaker 
prefers and uses a board y^ inch thick, bound at each 
end with metal binding to prevent warping. This is 



20 



Facts About Bees 



put on the brood-ncst or supers. Over this, still, he 
prefers a deep telescoping cover, to stand the vi^eather, 
which cover is worth all it costs for the additional pro- 
tection it gives to the comb-honey super during cool 
nights and inclement weather when the bees will stop 
comb-building and desert the supers at a time when the 
bee-keeper can ill afford it. If, on the other hand, the 
bees can be kept up in the supers, drawing out the comb 
vv'hen it warms up during the following day a large 
force of fielders can be spared to bring in the nectar, be- 
cause additional storage room has been provided during 
the night. It is sometimes penny wise and pound fool- 
ish to save a little expense in making a super warm, foi 
a fancy Danzenbaker section of honey will retail all the 
v/av from 15 to 30 cents in first-class stores and gro- 
ceries. If a bee-keeper can. l)y an outlay of ten cents 
extra, get back anywhere from 25 to 50 cents more in 
honey, he still has an investment good for many years 
to come — that is to sav, an extra investment of 10 cents 




DOUBLE COVKR 



may earn for him during tlic next ten years anywhere 
from $2.00 to $5.00 more in the better quality and 
quantity of honey. 

So far we have confined ourselves to a general de- 
scription of the Danzenbaker hive and the reason for its 
special construction. We will now devote oin-selves to 
its management. 



Facts About Bees 

Part II 
HOW TO START IN BEES 



The reader of this little work, having decided in 
favor of the Danzenbaker hive, will naturally desire 
to know how best to make a start with bees. As a 
general rule, we advise the prospective purchaser to 
get of his dealer a crate of five hives in the flat, in- 




DANZENBAKER HIVES PACKED IN THE FLAT FOR SHIPMENT 

eluding all the inside fixtures. We suggest getting 
five instead of one hive as the bees will swarm and re- 
quire more hives, so that the whole five will possibly 
be needed the first season. Directions go with each hive 
for nailing together ; and even the veriest novice at 
carpenter work will have no difficulty in putting the 
stuff together, for he can hardly get it together wrong. 
After the hives are nailed up and painted, we recom- 
mend the buying of some bees of some farmer in the 
vicinity. If possible, purchase in movable-frame hives; 
if not, get them in a box hive and proceed to cut out 
the combs by the directions given under the head of 
"Transferring," a little further on in this work. If bees 
can not be obtained in the neighborhood, or if for any 
reason one feels a little timid about breaking into a 
box hive and cutting out the combs, perhaps he had 
better send to his dealer and get a two or three frame 



22 Facts About Bees 

nucleus of Italian bees and queen. This can be sent 
in a light shipping box, and the price will not be high 
in consideration of the fact that the bees are blooded 
stock, very gentle, and the frames are all ready to put 
into the hive. 




A TWO-FRAME NUCLEUS SHIPPING-BOX 

But if the expense is no item, and one desires to 
make a quick start without any fussing or delay, he 
would better get a full colony of bees in a ten-frame 
Danzenbaker hive, with a nice tested Italian queen. 

How to Open and Examine a Hive of Bees 

We will assume that you have a colony of bees in a 
Danzenbaker hive, and that the same have been placed 
in the back yard. You will now desire to know how to 
open a hive and how to handle it. If you have not 



Facts About Bees 



23 



already procured tliem, ynii had better have a bee-veil 
and a pair of gloves with long gauntlets to protect 
the sleeves. Bee-men do not ordinarily need bee-glove? 
in handling bees ; but where one handles them for the 




BEE-GLOVE WITH EXPOSED FINGERS AND THUMB 




BEE-GLOVE WITH FINGERS 



first time he might naturally feel timid, and the gloves 
will give him a little more self-assurance ; and as he 
gradually learns the habits of bees he can dispense with 
gloves, and perhaps with the veil itself. 



24 



Facts About Bees 



Another requisite is a bee-smoker. This is a little tool 
that has a bellows and a sort of stove attached to it, 
which, when burning fuel, will give the bee-keeper a 
large volume of smoke. For handling bees, smoke is 
practically indispensable. A few puffs of it on them 
almost immediately subdues them. The only danger 




mm 



^1, ^^^l0^^\ 



ROOT BEE-SMOKER 

is that a beginner will use too much of it, driving the 
little chaps down between the frames, injuring the bees 
and starting a general roar of distress among them, 
for the poor little chaps have been subjected to real 
torture. 

Now, then, having all the tools, bee-veil, gloves, 
smoker, etc., be sure to light the smoker and have it 
ready. Let us now open up the hive. Oh, yes ! we 
need a screwdriver. Better go back to the house and 
get it. There, now we are ready. Blow three or four 
puffs of smoke into the entrance of the hive. This is 
to drive back the guards. With the screwdriver or 




fa 



II cd 

U V 



6 Facts About Bees 

hive tool enter the blade between the cover and the top 
of the hive or super as the case may be. (By super 
we mean that division or section of the hive that con- 
tains the honey-boxes, etc.) Keep on crowding the 
blade until a little gap of about a sixteenth of an inch 
is formed. Blow a little smoke into this gap. Now 
give the screwdriver a slight downward pressure, thus 




Holdingf the smoker between the knets 
while handling the frames 

making the gap wider. Blow in a little more smoke. 
Leave the screwdriver in place, with the right hand 
gently lifting the cover of the hive. We say "gently," 
because this is very important. A quick nervous jerky 
motion IS liable to cause the bees to fly out and sting. 
As the cover is being lifted, with one hand blow a little 



28 Facts About Bees 

smoke — not much — over the tops of the frames. Lay 
the cover down in the rear of the hive, bottom upward. 
If there is a super on the hive remove this in pre- 
cisely the same way, prying the screwdriver between 
it and the lower part of the hive, in the mean time 
using a httle smoke. The super should now be set 
down on the cover in such a way that the diagonally 
opposite corners just rest on the cleats. This will 
leave a space of about Ys inch between the super and 
the cover. 

In handling bees, always make it a point to avoid kill- 
ing or smashing them. A bee that is crushed care- 
lessly is liable, by its little squeals, to start the other 
bees. 

Well, now we are ready to remove a comb. Pick 
up the screwdriver with one hand and the smoker 
with the other. Enter the blade between a pair of 
frames, and give it a slight twist, blowing a little smoke 
down between ; next loosen the follower, after which 
it may be removed. Break the connections on each side 
of the frame to be removed, then set down the smoker 
and the screwdriver. With the balls of the fore fingers 
passed down between the ends of the hive and the 
frames, grab hold of the end-bars of the loosened 
frame. Very slowly lift it upward. If you find it 
still sticks, pr}^ the frames on each side a little further 
apart, when it should come out easily. When it is 
removed, look it over and set it down against the hive 
or some other object. Loosen up another frame in the 
same way. After examining the brood and the young 
bees, and after having found the queen (she looks like 
the other bees, only she is a little larger and longer) 
then proceed to close the hive up. Put one frame in at 
a time; but in doing so be careful not to kill any bees. 
This can be done by sliding the edges that come in con- 
tact with each other past each other on a perpendicular 
line in such a way as to brush the bees off; or, if pre- 
ferred, a little smoke may be blown down between the 
edges that come in contact, driving the bees away; but 
if there are many bees in the hive this is impracticable. 
Insert all the frames one by one till all are in place, 
and then put back the follower. 



Facts About Bees 



31 



As a general rule it is not necessary to remove czrry 
frame. The practical bee-man will soon learn how to 
tell from examination of a single frame what the whole 
colonv is doing. If eggs and brood in various stages 
are found on the comb, it may be assumed that a 
queen is present. If the colony seems strong, and the 
bees are flying at the entrance vigorously to and from 
the fields it may be inferred that the queen is doing her 
full duty; so it is a general practice not to pull out 
more than one frame, "if this is put right back into the 




slot from which it came, even if the end-bars are totally 
covered with bees, they will be brushed out of the 
way in the operatioji and not a hcc will be killed. 

How to Make an Artificial Swarm 

Suppose the colony has become so strong that you 
would like to make an artificial swarm by "dividing," 
as we say. Split the brood-nest into two or three di- 
visions by means of the screwdriver and a little smoke. 
Each division of three or four frames held together 
by piopolis connections can be removed in solid blocks 



32 



Facts About Bees 



and inserted in one or more empty hives ; and in this 
way the colony will be divided into two or three parts. 
If empty frames of foundation l)e now placed on each 
side of the bees thus removed, we shall have the nucleus 
of a new colony; but it should be understood that the 
tiying bees will go back to the old stand, and an effort 




THE WRONG WAY TO HANDLE DAN2ENBAKER FRAMES 

[The illustration shows the wrong way to handle the Danzen- 
baker or any closei-end frames. They should always be made to 
stand together in close contact of twos, threes, and fours. When so 
placed they will not tumble together in confusion, killing bees be- 
tween the contact edges. Tlie only way to straighten up a 
mess of this kind without killing bees, is to pick up one frame at 
a time and slide the edges of contact down past those of another 
frame: this will shove the bees out of the way without killing or 
maiming any. If, on the other hand, thej^ be pushed up together 
on their points of support sidewise, the' killing of bees will be 
inevitable. To save time, the frames should always be handled in 
blocks of two or more.] 



should, therefore, be made to take the most of the 
bees away to the new stands, for the flying bees will 
soon go back and take care of any brood left at the 
old stand. In the course of two or three days an ex- 
amination will show in which nucleus or division the 



Facts About Bees 



33 



queen is present. If eggs are found, she is surely in 
that hive. If queen-cells are built, then just as surely 
she is not there. See how the bees supply themselves 
with a queen. 

In these various manipulations, it will be seen it is 
rot necessary to kill a single bee, and, what is more, 
the Danzenbaker frame can be handled in blocks of two 
or three. When so handled, the several frames in each 
block are not pried apart where stuck together with 




THE RIGHT WAY TO HANDLE DANZENBAKER FRAMES 

[Danzenbaker frames should not be pried apart singly, but in 
blocks of two or more. When so handled, they will not tumble over 
against each other, as shown in illustration just preceding. "When 
a single frame is taken out, the next adjoining ones should be 
pried a little apart from it. It may then be removed, and when 
inserted in the same way, and all bees that may in the meantime 
have crawled over the contact edges will be shoved out of the way 
as the frame descends into position. Notice that the pin-support is 
out of the way where it can crush no bees. When the frames are 
in place, crowd them together tightly to keep out the bee-glue.] 

natural bee-glue. With an ordinary unspaced Langs- 
troth frame, a beginner, at least, would not be able to 
handle two or three frames at a time, for he would have 
to stick his fingers down between the several combs to 
keep them apart and from smashing bees, and run the 
risk of being stung ; and if he were stung he would be 
Hable to drop the frames and be a sadder and wiser 
man therefor, and in all probability he would never 





\ 






I 



•i # 



\# 



kA^. 



Facts About Bees iS 

want any thing more to do with bees. Right here the 
Danzenbaker frame allows one to handle two or three 
at a time, without any danger of a catastrophe of this 
kind. The Hoffman frames described in another book- 
let under the head of the "Dovetailed Hive" can be 
handled in the same way, and with the same facility. 

How to Transfer from Box to Danzenbaker Hives 

The old-fashioned way, was to pry off the side of 
the box hive, cut out the combs, and fit them, after a 
fashion, into the brood-frames. But this takes a great 
deal of time, and at best it is a sticky, mussy job, to 
say nothing of the mashedup bees and stings, and finally 
the result is a lot of patched-up, crooked combs. The 
combs in box hives are usually so crooked, so old, and 
contain so many drone-cells, that it will be money in 
pocket to purchase brood foundation, fasten it into 
frames on wires ready to receive the transferred col- 
ony. 

We will assume that your hive or hives, having been 
received in the flat, are put together and painted, and 
contain frames of wired foundation ready for the bees. 
Light your smoker and put on your bee-veil. Move the 
old hive back four or five feet, and put the new hive 
in its place. Prepare a small box a1)out i8 inches deep 
and one side open, that will just cover (not slip over) 
the bottom of the box hive. Turn it upside down ; set 
the hiving box over it, and then drum on the sides of 
the hive with a couple of sticks until about two- 
thirds of the bees pass up into the box. Gently lift off 
the box containing the bees, and dump it in front of the 
entrance of the new hive. Make sure that the queen is 
among them, watching for her as she passes with the 
rest into the entrance. If you do not discover her, look 
inside the hive. H you still fail to find her, drum out 
bees from the old hive again until you do get her, for, 
to make the plan a success, she must be in the nczu 
hive. 

Return to the box hive, and turn it right side up 
and set it down a couple of feet back of the new one, 
with its entrance turned at right angles. You now 



36 Facts About Bees 

have in the hive ahoiit one-third of the original col- 
ony, the combs, and all the brood. Allow the old hive 
to stand for at least 21 days, at the end of which time 
the brood will be hatched out, with the exception of a 
little drone brood which will be of no vahie. Tnrn the 
hive upside down, and drum the bees out again into the 
hiving-box, after which dump it in front of the en- 
trance of the new hive, as 1)efore. Next put an en- 
trance-guard of perforated zinc over the entrance of 
the new hive. Smoke the bees of the hive, and then 
those in the hiving-box, after which dump it in front of 
the entrance to the new hive, as before. The smoking 
is to prevent the fighting on the part of the bees at the 
second drive, and the entrance-guard is to catch the 
f]ueen or queens that have been raised in the mean- 
time in the old hive. Ihese one or two, if virgins, 
should be caught on the perforated metal and given to 
some queenless stocks. If the old queen in the new hive 
is a valuable one she should l)e caged at the time of 
making the second drive. If neither queen (the one 
in the old hive or the one in the new one) is valuable 
the perforated zinc need not l)e used. 

The job of transferring is now completed, and all 
you have on hand is an old box hive containing a lot 
of old crooked combs, with perhaps a little honey and 
drone comb in it. The honey can be extracted, or 
used as chunk honey on the table, if fit for use. The 
rest can l)e melted up into wax, and the hive itself will 
make first-class kindling-wood, because it is smeared 
over on the inside with propolis and bits of wax. 



The Inmates of the Hive 

These consist of the workers, queen, and the drones, 
or male bees. The first mentioned are nothing more 
nor less than undeveloped females or queens. But 
because in babyhood they received a coarser food, and 
were confined, in a smaller cradle, so to speak, they 
are unable to perform the functions of a mother excent 
under peculiar stress of conditions; and even then the 



Facts About Bees 



37 



eggs that they may lay will produce drones and not 
workers or queens. 

A queen as may be already inferred, comes trom a 
worker egg. This egg will hatch in about three days, 
when a tiny grub will be found floatmg m a milky-white 
food • but at the end of the third day, if the bees mtend 
to rear a worker instead of a queen, they wnl change 
the food, supplying a coarser pap that appears to stunt 
the growth of what might otherwise, with a richer tood. 
produce a queen with all the reproductive organs prop- 
erly developed. At the end of the ninth day the little 
larva that was intended to be only a worker has grown 
almost large enough to fill its tiny cell. The young bees 
only a week old, will then proceed to close up or cap 
this cell, when it takes on the imago form, or that ot 
a true insect, with head, thorax, and abdomen. At 
the end of the twelfth day the eyes and mouth parts 
appear- and after eighteen days the insect becomes 




a perfectly formed bee, except that it is pearly white. 
It takes about three more days for it to turn yelloNV 
or brown or black, depending on the race of bees. At 
the end of the twentieth or twenty-first day it begins 
to gnaw its way out. As soon as it emerges it crawls 
out a feeble downy little insect with crumpled wmgs, 
rubs its eyes and combs its hair and finally dips its 
head in a cell of honey; but at the _ end of the 
third or fourth day it has come to be quite a bee. It 
has now assumed the duties of nurse m caring tor the 
little grubs, leaving the other bees to bring home bee- 
bread, and nectar, which, by the process of inversion, is 



38 



Facts About Bees 






Tacts About Dees 



39 



finally converted into honey fit for the gods and man 
to eat. 

The growth of the queen-bee is much the same, ex- 
cept that the very rich food or royal jelly, as we call it, 
is continued long enough to develop fully the reproduc- 
tive organs. As this process continues her own body 
grows larger so that, across her waist, she measures 
4-1000 of an inch larger across the waist than that of 
a worker-bee, and the length of her body is from a 
fourth to a half longer ; and during the laying season 
it is larger in diameter. On the other hand her mouth 
parts seem to be stunted, so that while she may feed 
herself her subjects generally feed her instead. 




Strange as it may seem, the queen may lay from 2000 
to 3000 eggs a day, or an aggregate weight of them, if 
put on the scales, to equal the weight of her entire body, 
and all that in a single day ! Just imagine, if you 
can, any hen that could perform a like feat. But that 
is precisely what a queen-bee does do, not only for one 
day, but for many days prior to and during the honey- 
flow. The queen's sting, also, seems to be somewhat 
aborted — a weapon that she very rarely uses except on 
a rival; and when she does make any use of it on a 



40 Facts About Bees 

human being the cases arc so very rare that we may 
say she practically never stings any thing but another 
queen-bee. 

But in order to give a complete life-history of her 
royal majesty we shall have to stop a moment and 
say something about her consort, the drone or male 
bee. This individual is quite striking in appearance, be- 
ing much larger than a worker, clumsy in size and 
clumsy in movement. He is reared from an egg that 
produces only male bees, and such eggs are laid un- 
der normal conditions in cells of larger diameter, or 
what we call drone-cells. He is fed and nur- 
tured in the same way that the ciueen and worker are 
cared for. In the course of time his waxen cell is 
capped over. But the capping, instead of being flat, is 
considerably rounding. The appearance, therefore, of 
capped drone brood is somewhat like that of a lot of 
small bullets or buckshot cut in halves and laid close 
together flat side down. 

At the end of the twenty-fourth day the drone 
emerges, feeble and downy, and in general behavior 
acts very much like a worker that has just emerged. 

The drone serves no purpose other than to fecundate 
the queen, which act takes place only in the air — never 
elsewhere. Probably not one drone out of five hun- 
dred serves the purpose of his creation, since many 
drones are reared to one queen. At the end of the 
honey season all the drones, while not exactly mas- 
sacred, are pushed out of the hive by the worker bees, 
where the poor fellows starve to death. But if, on 
the other hand, a colony be queenless or has a virgin 
queen, the drones are tolerated in the hive until Mrs. 
Queen has met a drone, when all the rest are rudely 
forced out of the hive only to suffer the usual fate of 
his kind. 

How the Bees Supply Themselves With a New Queen 

From what has been already stated, the general pro- 
cedure on the part of the bees has been given. During 
the beginning or height of the honey-flow the bees 
will prepare to swarm. When the old colony goes 



Facts About Bees 



41 



forth with the queen, the bees will be under the neces- 
sity of having another queen left in reserve, so they 
will begin to feed a few of their very young larvae 
located at advantageous points on the comb with royal 
food. At this time they will begin to enlarge the cell 
or cells around these highly favored grubs. As the 
royal babies grow, the queen-cells — for that is what 
we call them — continue to be enlarged until at the end 
of the tenth day they stick out from the side of the 
comb like fair-sized peanuts. Their appearance is so 
very striking that the novice will have no trouble in 
locating them. 

At the end of the sixteenth day from the laying of 
the egg, one or more queen-bees will hatch from one or 



u 



ET^" ' " ■■ 

QUEEN-CEIvI<S 

more of the cells; but just before this takes place the 
swarm will have made preparation, and will probably, 
on the first pleasant day, issue. Nearly all the bees 
will leave except a few young ones to take care of the 
brood and make a fair start. The first virgin that 
emerges, as soon as she has brushed her feathers and 
had a good breakfast, will proceed to destroy all the 
rivals in the other cells that may not have hatched. 



42 Facts About Bees 

In case she meets one that has come forth, a battle 
royai ensues until one or the other is killed ; but the 
successful rival realizes the very great importance of 
promptly dispatching other possible rivals while they 
are in their baby state, and before they are able to put 
up a successful defense. 

At the end of the fourth or fifth day after hatching, 
the young virgin, -now monarch of all she surveys, 
takes a peep at the entrance, spreads out her silken 
wings, and soars aloft, but not till she has carefully 
marked her surroundings and the general location by 
many and many a circle, each circle becoming larger, 
until she hies herself away only to be met, probably, 
by a school of drones which immediately put out in 
hot pursuit. The swiftest-winged drone is the success- 
ful suitor ; but during the process of copulation the 
queen tears herself away from him taking with her his 
reproductive organs, when he immediately drops as if 
paralyzed. If the first copulation did not impregnate, 
the queen may come forth again and meet another 
drone. At the end of the second or third day after 
mating, the queen w\\\ begin to lay ; but if she does not 
meet the drone, or does not become impregnated, her 
eggs will produce only drones. 

If we had the space, we might at this point go into 
the subject of parthenogenesis; but we respectfully 
refer the reader to our larger work, the A B C of Bee 
Culture for a full treatment of this subject. 

We have already explained how a queen-bee is pro- 
duced under the swarming impulse. The process of re- 
newing queens may occur in precisely the same way if 
the old queen begins to fail through age or injury. 
Before she dies, the bees (expecting her demise) start 
queen-cells. When these are found in the hive outside 
of the swarming season, with the old queen present, the 
apiarist usually concludes that the bees are about to 
supersede her. 

When the queen is suddenly killed or removed by 
the apiarist, the bees will immediately, with the eggs 
that are left, start several queen-cells for they recog- 
nize the fact that the very perpetuity of the colony de- 
pends on having a good laying queen, and, that they 



Facts About Bees 43 

may take no chances, raise several cells instead of only 
one that may fail. 

In case there shonld be no eggs nor larvae from 
which to rear a good queen, the bees will use the largest 
larva, but such queens are usually inferior. If there 
is nothing from which to rear a queen, in a few days 
the bees will set up a wail of distress. It is a sort of low 
hum, which, to the experienced bee-keeper, indicates 
queenlessness. 

Such, in brief, is the life history of the inmates of 
the hive ; and for further particulars the reader is re- 
ferred to our larger work, the A B C of Bee Culture, 
a cyclopedia of over 500 pages. 

Part III 

METHODS OF MANAGEMENT 

Robbing 

At the ver}^ outset it is very important that the no- 
vice understand that bees will steal from each other. 
There will be no trouble from robbing if there be only 
one colony in the vicinity ; but if there be several when 
there is no honey to be secured in the fields, the for- 
a^^ers are watching their chances to steal from the hou -.e 
or honey from each other. At such times they will 
start a high keynote; and, if unrestrained, are liable 
to become quite cross. When the honey or sweet is 
cut off, then it is that their fury reaches its highest 
point, and they will sometimes sting viciously. It is 
then that the beginner may wdsh he never saw bees, 
and his neighbors too, for that matter. 

When no honey is coming from the fields it is advis- 
able to have the entrance contracted down to the 
smallest space ; and if a colony be weak, say not more 
than one or two frames of bees and brood, the other 
bees are liable to pounce upon it. In such case we 
would advise taking the robbed hive away entirely and 
carrying it down cellar and leaving it there for two or 
three days. In the meantime contract the entrances of 
all the other hives down to the space that one or two 
bees can pass at a time. At the end of two or three 
days the robbed colony may be taken out at night, and 



44 



Facts About Bees 



its entrance contracted down to about the space that 
one bee can pass and no more. 

Never open the hives when the bees of other hives 
hover over the frames. But right here the question will 
arise, how is one to know whether the bees belong to 
other hives or not? Largely by their nervous actions, 
and whether the bees on the combs grab at any bee that 
attempts to alight on the exposed comb. Under such 
circumstances it is always advised to close the hive up 
immediately and contract the entrance. 

Bees are liable to rob between the time of fruit- 
bloom and the opening-up of clover and basswood in 
the North ; but if anything it is more serious after 
clover and basswood close in July or August. From 
that time on until the fall flow the bee-keeper must take 
extra precaution that his bees do not get to stealing 
from each other. During the canning season the 
women-folks are advised to keep the bees from coming 
in. As nearly every one uses fly-screens now, there will 
be very little trouble from that source. 

Feeding; How to Feed 

In the early spring, and after settled warm weather 
comes on, the bees will rccpiire to be fed, possibly. If 
an examination of the combs shows very little sealed 
honey, the bees should be given a sugar syrup made by 
mixing sugar and water, equal proportions, and stirring 
until the sugar is all dissolved. I'his should now be 
poured into a shallow pan, say about a quart, and the 
surface of the syrup covered with a sheet of wet cheese- 
cloth to prevent the bees from drowning. The bees will 




crawl up on the cloth, and take the syrup until it is all 
taken down and deposited in the combs. While this 
pan of syrup may be put at the entrance at night in 



Facts About Bees 



45 



warm weather it is strongly urged to_ place the syrup 
in an empty super placed on top of the hive. Lay a 
couple of sticks across the pan, then cover the frames 
and the syrup with an old carpet or old quilt — any thing 
that will hold the heat of the cluster down. 



4IpifiW% 




BOARDMAN FEEDER 
[This is an entrance feeder. The projection fits into the entrance. 
The bees pass through the slot and take the feed through the per- 
lurations in the cap.] 

Excellent feeders for feeding at the entrance are sold, 
notably the Boardman. These can be obtained of the 
nearest dealer. 

In cool or cold weather, if the bees are short of 
stores they should be given some kind of pure un- 
flavored and uncolored granulated-sugar candy. This 
is made by pouring a little water on some granulated 
sugar, enough so that it forms a very thick syrup. This 
should be boiled to a "crack,'' that is to say, the finger 
should be dipped in cold water, then into the syrup, and 
immediately back again into the cold water. If the film 
of candy cracks when the finger is bent, the syrup may 
then be poured into greased tin pans, making cakes 
about V^ of an inch thick. These sticks of candy may 
then be placed on top of the cluster of the bees, and 
then the quilt placed on top of the whole. If it is 
not convenient to make the candy, loaf sugar placed 
in a shallow pan and wet down with a little water will 
answer nearh^ as well. 

We would not advise giving liquid syrup, even in 
warm weather, if the bees have been robbing. In that 
case give the candy or the loaf sugar as just advised. 



46 Facts About Bees 

How to Introduce a Queen 

It may seem a little queer to the novice, but a strange 
queen must always be "introduced" to her new subjects 




QUEEN MAII^ING AND INTRODUCING CAGE 

before they will accept her. Tt is a general law in 
bee-hive economy, that the l)ees under normal conditions 
will tolerate only one queen at a time, and she must 
have the same odor as they themselves. If she bears 
the smell of another colony she is considered an inter- 
loper, when they will immediately proceed to destroy 
her. A dozen or so will grab her by the legs and wings, 
and the result will be that ]\Irs. Queen will begin to 
squeal in real fright. This noise will excite the other 
bees, when they will all join in the melee. Hundreds 
of bees will cluster around about her, hissing and tug- 
ging at her ; and so many will there be that it will l3e 
almost impossible for any one of them to sting her. 
The ball of bees will increase in size until it becomes 
as large as a double list. Unless she is liberated she 
will be suffocated, if she is not stung to death. It is 
then that the apiarist, if he sees this bunch of bees, 
must use a smoker vigorously fcfr a few minutes. This 
will scatter the rioters ; and if the smoking be con- 
tinued the queen can be soon found, picked up by the 
wings, and the bees in a like manner be pulled away 



Facts About Bees 47 

from her; but as this would be rather risky business 
for a beginner, he may find it more easy to drop the 
ball of bees into a pan of water, when it will imme- 
diately melt away, as it were, and the queen can be re- 
covered and caged. 

But we have not yet explained how to introduce a 
queen. The usual method is to put her in a wire-cloth 




INTRODUCING CAGE 
[Into the square hole in the end is pushed soft candy which the 
bees eat ovit, and release the queen.] 

cage, one end of which is stopped up with a plug of 
soft bee-candy made by mixing powdered sugar and 
honey into a stiff dough. This plug of candy is covered 
with a thin piece of cardboard to keep the bees from 
eating the candy out too soon, and thus releasing the 
queen bee before her future subjects have become 
"acquainted" with her. The cage is then placed on top 
of the frame, and allowed to remain for 24 or 48 hours. 
The cover is then removed ; and if the cardboard has 
not been gnawed away it is removed, when the hive is 
immediately closed. This should then be left for 
two or three days. At the end of this time the bees will 
have eaten out the candy and released the queen: for 
during the time of her confinement in the cage she will 
have acquired the same odor as the rest of the bees and 
be received as their own mother. 

But let it be understood that it would be impossible 
to introduce a queen in this or any other way if there 
be another laying queen already in the hive, or if there 
was a young virgin ; and it is difficult, often, to intro- 
duce when there are a lot of queen-cells in the hive, 
especially if such cells are liable to hatch soon. Before 
attempting to introduce, destroy all cells and^ make sure 
that no other queen of any kind is present in the hiz'C. 
When getting a queen from a distance it is advised 
to remove the old queen and kill her, then cage tlie 
new one at the same operation. Do not make the mis- 



48 Facts About Bees 

take of wnitinp: two or three days l)cfore the new queen 
is put in the liive. 

How to Produce Comb Honey 

It is presumed, of course, that the beginner, if he has 
a colony of bee;., has a]rea;l> i)urchased comb-honey 
appliances consisting of honey-ljoxes, comb foundation, 
and supers (or upper stories) that fit on the hive that 
he has purchased. These ought all to be prepared and 
be in readiness before the honey-flow conies on. As 
it often takes some time to get the supplies from the 
factory it is advised to place the order for such goods 
early in the season. The section honey-boxes should 
be folded up and the little strips of foundation should 
be inserted in the section. 

Along about the middle of June, in northern locali- 

. ties, when the bees bea-in to crowd the brood-nest with 

honey, and the top of the combs begins to whiten, 




BEE EsLlPE 

especially if the field bees are going in and out of the 
hive rapidly, it is advised to put the super with sections 
on top of the hive, then the cover. This will give the 
bees extra room ; and if all goes well they should begin 
to draw out the comb foundation and start work in the 
section honey-boxes. But suppose they fail to do so. 
In that case the honey-flow is not strong enough, or 
else the colony is too weak in numbers. Some seasons 
the flow is so light that the bees can not be forced 
above by any amount of coaxing ; but it sometimes hap- 
pens that, even with a good flow and a good colony, 
the bees fail to go up in the sections. If one has them, 
sections party drawn out the previous season can be 
used to advantage. Put one or two of these in the place 



Facts About Bees 49 

of a section or sections of foundation. These are called 
"bait combs," and as soon as the bees commence to 
work in these and then in the other sections there will 
be no further trouble so long as the honey-flow re- 
rains good. As soon as the bees are nicely at work 
in all the sections, and get them about half filled with 
honey, place on top another super for two or three days. 
In case they fail to enter this second set of sections, 
lift the • first super up and put the second one 
under it. When they are nicely started in the second 
super, reverse the position of the supers, putting the 
first one next to the brood-nest. The object of this is 
to get the first set of sections nicely and evenly filled 
out and capped over. When all the sections are filled 
— that is to say, finished — remove the first super, drop 
the second super down on to the hive and put on 
another one, and so on continue the process as in- 
dicated. As the honey-flow begins to slacken, no more 
super room should be given; otherwise the bees will 
begin to work in a lot of sections and never finish 
them. It is desirable to have all the sections finished at 
the close of the season. Doubtless the second super, if 
filled and completed, will be all the honey that one will 
be able to get in a season, but one may in a good flow, 
with only a few bees in a locality, be able to obtain 
i] ree and possibly four supers, and in some rare in- 
stances five and six, if the colony be strong and the 
honey-flow good. 




BKE-RSCAPE BOARD 
[The bees of the super caii pass down through the hole in the es- 
cape board into the hive or brood-ne&t; but they can not go back.] 

After a super of sections is finished it should be 
lifted off and a bee-escape placed under it. At the end 
of 24 hours the bees will have gone through the bee- 
escape down into the lower super or hive, leaving 2'S 



50 



Facts About Bees 



sections clear of bees ready to take in the house to use 
or for the market. But if the honey be sold, the stains 
of bee-glue should be nicely scraped off with a case- 
knife so that the sections will present a nice clean ap- 
pearance. 

How to Produce Extradled Honey 

This is very much simpler, involving; less skill and 
knowledge than the production of comb honey. All 
that is required, usually, is to give the bees an extra 
story with frames of foundation or empty comb. As 
fast as the bees fill it, add another super or upper 
story containing combs or foundation, and continue on 




'mS2i 



HONEY-EXTRAC FOR 
[Two combs are put into the baskets of the machine— the turning 
of the crank subjects the combs to a high rotative speed, the centrif- 
ugal force of which throws the honey out without injuring the 
combs, which may be used again.] 

as long as the season lasts ; but if one has no extra 
supers he would be compelled to "extract." For this 
purpose he will need a honey-extractor and an un- 
capping-knife, which he can obtain of the supply-dealer. 
As these will be required in any case, no matter which 



Facts About Bees 51 

plan he pursues, the sooner he procures them the bet- 
ter. 

A beginner, at least, is advised to use a bee-escape 
as mentioned under "Comb-honey Production.' To 




HOW T.^ cu 



K BKES OFF A COMB 



[The method here shown illustrates one plan of jarring the 
bees off by a sharp, quick blow of the fist on the back of the hand 
holding the frame ] 



get the bees off the combs, this bee-escape board shorl 1 
be placed between the extracting-combs and the brood- 
nest, forcing all the bees out into the lower compart- 
ment. If put on at night the super will usually be found 



52 Facts About Bees 

free of bees in the morning. If bee-escapes are not 
used it will be necessary to brush or shake the bees off 
the combs one by one. Special bee-brushes with a soft 
sweep are provided for the purpose by the dealers. 
If these are not at hand a handful of long grass or 
weeds answers a very excellent temporary purpose. 

The beginner should be cautioned to tuck the end of 
his pants legs in his stockings, and remove his coat and 



^»%i 



"^^ 



?^: 



EEE-ERUillES 



vest, before he shakes or brushes the combs. Some 
may prefer to use bicycle pants-guards to hold the pant- 
tightly around the shoe. In any case, the clothing 
should be so adjusted that no bees can crawl up under 
and get next to the wearer. 

The extracting should be done inside of the house or 
some closed room, screened in such a way as to shut 
out flies and bees. With the honey-knife the thin film 
of wax covering the cells should be sliced off. In order 
to work rapidly and easily the knife should be put into 
a pan of water kept at a temperature of about lOO 
degrees. To work to the best advantage one should 
lave an uncapping can or box. For particulars re-^ard- 
ing this see a dealer's catalog of bee-supplies. When the 
combs are uncapped they may be placed inside of the 



Facts About Bees 



53 



honey-extractor, when a rapid tnrnip.g of the handle 
will throw the honey out. As there are two snrfaces to 
every comb, the combs shonld be reversed either in the 




ANOTHER METHOD OF SHAKING BEES OFF THE COMB 

[A stiong hold on each edge of the frame is taken; it is then given 
a quick jci k. downward and upward. If done right, it will dislodge 
all the bees.] 



extractor, if it be a reversible machine, or out of the 
extractor if it be a non-reversing type. 

When all the combs are empty on both sides they 
may be placed back on the hives for the bees to fill 
again, and so on, the process to be repeated as long as 
the season continues. But if the extracting be done 



Facts About Bees 

er the honcj^-flow, extreme care should be used 
let any robbers get started. 



not 




How to Control Swarming 

This is a mooted question, even among the veterans; 
but under some conditions, at least, and a reasonable 
amount of care, a fair degree of control can be secured. 
In the production of extracted honey the problem is 
comparatively easy. 

Perhaps the most popular method employed is what 
is known as the clipped-wing plan. The queen's wings 



Facts About Bees 55 

should be clipped on one side (which method will be 
described presently) and the bees given plenty of room 
above for the storage of honey. A strong colony that 
shows indications of swarming should have all the 
queen-cells cut out if any are built. Precaution should 
be taken not to miss a single one. An upper story 
with empty combs of foundation should then be placed 
on top, with a frame or two of brood above, supplying 
their places in the brood-nest with frames of foun- 
dation. As fast as the bees begin to draw and fill their 
combs, put on more extracting-supers as directed under 
"Extracted Honey." If, perchance, a swarm should 
come forth it can not very well leave, as the queen's 
wings are dipped. She will come out with the swarm, 
and, failing to fly, will hop around in the grass, and 
finally return to the hive. The swarm, after findmg 
she is not with them, will return ; but when such a 
swarm has once come out and returned it should not 
be allowed to repeat the attempt. The shook or 
brushed swarm plan should then be practiced, which 
plan will be described later. 

But the control of swarming in the production of 
comb honey is much more difficult Sometimes before 
the bees enter the supers they will sulk by hanging 
out at the entrance, and finally swarm. In all modern 
well-regulated apiaries the wings of the queen are 
clipped after she begins laying. This work is usually 
done in the spring, when there are fewer bees and 
less difficulty in finding her. Many apiarists think it 
advisable to let their first swarm issue, then cut out all 
cells but one. While it is in the air the ground is care- 
fully examined in front of the entrance, to discover the 
clipped queen. When located she is caged, and an 
empty hive, with empty combs or frames of founda- 
tion, is put in place on the old stand. The caged queen 
is placed in front of the entrance of new hive now on 
the old stand when the super that was on the old hive 
now set to one side with its drawn comb is placed on 
top. Last of all the old hive is then carried to a new 
location. The swarm soon returns, and, finding their 
queen in front of the hive, rushes in pell mell. The 
queen is next released when she goes in. The first 



56 Facts About Bees 

honey that comes in will necessarily have to be stored 
ni the supers, just where it is wanted, providing foun- 
dation is used. Some go so far as to use only start- 
ers. In any event it is advisable to use foundation 
rather than empty combs. In either case there will be 
no swarming by that colony again, and the bee-keeper 
will be in shape to get a good yield of honey provid- 
ing the season is good. The old -parent colony on its 
new location will be so depleted in numbers that all 
cells and all virgins will be destroyed but one, and 
there v/ill be no swarming from the parent colony. 

But there may be some who necessarily have to be 
av-.ay during the middle of the day. In that case we 
would advise that the same plan of procedure be car- 
ried out as already o-itlined, except that the bee-keeper 
himself makes the bees swarm at his convenience — that 
is to say, he removes the old hive from its stand and 
puts a new one with foundation in its place. He should 
then open the old hive and shake two-thirds of all the 
bees on the ground, in front of new hive, compelling 
them to crawl in just as they would if they had 
swarmed out naturally and returned. The parent hive 
should then be taken to an entirely new location, and 
the super that was on it (providing there was one) 
should be put on the new hive, now on the old stand, 
into which the shaken swarm has gone. 

In the meantime the colony in the parent hive moved 
to the new location, owing to the sudden depletion of 
the working force, will give up all idea of swarming; 
but it would be a wise precaution to cut out all the 
cells but one. In the meantime the shaken swarm on 
the old stand in the new hive will deport itself very 
much as if it had swarmed naturally, and all the flying 
bees from the new or old hive will all unite with it. 
They will begin drawing out the foundation ; and as 
fast as they do this the queen will occupy the cells, 
so that all the honey that comes in will necessarily 
have to go into the supers. 

Some practice a slight modification of the foregoing 
method by putting the parent hive a few feet to one 
side, the entrance facing in the same direction. All 
cells are destroyed ; and after the brood is hatched 



Facts About Bees 57 

out, which should be within three weeks, the bees arc 
shaken in front of the one containing the first drive of 
bees, or what was originally the old stand. The old 
hive is then taken away entirely. In this way, all 
brood, when it hatches out, will be given to the original 
shaken swarm ; and with such a force of bees one is 
prepared to get honey. 

But when one practices this method of making arti- 
ficial, shaken, or brushed swarms, he should remember 
that probai.ly nothing will be accomplished in swarm 
prevention by shaking unless the bees arc actually 
preparing tj szcann. Tliey must feel a desire for it 
to the extent of making preparations, such as queen-cell 
building, whitening the tops of the combs, or hanging 
out in front of the hive. Then vv^hen shaken they will 
deport themselves very much as if they had actually 
swarmed. 

The advantage of shaking, as above described, is that 
it permits the bee-keeper to take care of the swarms 
at his convenience, not at some time when he is com- 
pelled to be at his office or away from home, or out on 
the farm bevond the call of the house. 



How to Clip the Queen 

In the first paragraph on this subject of swarm con- 
trol reference is made to the matter of clipping a 
queen's wings. For the benefit of those who maj,- 
know nothing of the method of procedure, we will 
state that it simply means catdiing the queen-bee and 
clipping the wings on one side. This is usually done 
with a pair of scissors, or it may be accomplished with 
a sharp knife. But the novice perhaps will be afraid 
to attempt the job for fear he might mutilate or maim 
the queen, and this apprehension on his part will be 
greater if the queen cost him three or five dollars. 

In order to acquire some skill in catching queens 
for the purpose of clipping he should practice picking 
up drones off the combs by the wings. When he be- 
comes sufficiently proficient in this he may then attempt 
a worker bee; but he should so catch the wings that 



58 



Facts About Bees 



the worker can not turn around and sting. When he 
can catch both drones and workers, then he can with 




some degree of assurance pick up a queen. This done, 
he should now transfer her to the left (or free) hand, 
and this may be done by taking hold of her waist be- 



Facts About Bees C9 

tween the thumb and forefinger of the free h^nd. 
This will leave the wings exposed, when, with a pair 
of scissors, the wings on one side can be easily clipped. 
Grab the undipped wings, then poke her nose between 
the combs, let go, when the job will be done. 



How to Winter in the Danzenbaker Hive 

Toward the first of September all colonies should be 
examined to see if they have sufficient stores and a 
good queen. If there be no honey-flow they should hz 
fed until the combs are well filled with stores. The 
bees may require to be fed again in November before 




Method of wintering in Danzenbaker hive 
with winter case 



they take their long winters sleep, for during cold 
weather they go into a sort of quiescent semi-hibernating]- 
state, when the consumption of stores will be light. 

As the weather becomes colder a cluster will draw 
up smaller until a large colony will be compressed into 
a space not much larger than the double fist. This is 
done on the part of the bees to maintain body heat and 
prevent being chilled to death. But in order to fore- 
stall too large a consumption of stores, inducing disease, 



60 Facts About Bees 

it is advised either to carry the bees into a darkened 
cellar or put a Danzenbaker winter case over the hive 
and winter out of doors. Between this case and the 
hive proper should be placed folds of newspaper; then 
when neatly tucked over the top of the hive the winter 
case should be shoved down over as shown in the illus- 
tration. But in order to use this case a super-cover 
must be used in place of the regular hive-cover that 
may have come with the hive. If one purchased a 
Danzenbaker hive with the telescoping or K cover, he 
secured with it a thin board bound at both ends with 
metal and of a width and length equal to the width 
and length of the hive. This is called a super-cover, 
and is, in fact, a part of K-cover equipment. The en- 
trance should then be contracted, if it has not already 
bL.^cn done, by reversing the alighting-board so that the 
appearance is the same as shown in the illustration. 

This arrangement of wintering in the Danzenbaker 
hive will give excellent results up to a latitude of 
about 42 degrees, but much Ijeyond that we would 
advise cellar wintering, providing the proper cellar 
temperature can be maintained. When settled cold 
v;eather comes on, which in some localities is about 
the first of December and others the first of Januai*y, 
if the indoor method is to be followed, all the hives 
should be carried down into a darkened cellar where 
the temperature can be kept, as nearly as possible, uni- 
form at 45 degrees. If the temperature has a tendency 
to go up to 65 at certain times, and down to freezing 
at other times, it will be a poor cellar in which to 
winter bees. In that case we would advise the out- 
door method with a winter case, and in addition to 
this a high board fence around the bees, or otherwise 
protect them by a barn and other out-buildings so that 
the prevailing winds may be cut off; for the more pro- 
tected the spot where the bees are kept, the better they 
•vill winter. 

If cellar conditions are favorable, the hives should 
.)e piled one on top of the other; but instead of giving 
them a contracted entrance the alighting-board should 
be reversed, giving an entrance 7,s by the full width of 
the hive. 



ADDENDA 

Some have reported that, with the 
Danzenbaker hive, or other shallow 
hives, the bees are inclined to store pol- 
len in the sections. This difficulty can 
be easily overcome by having in the 
brood-nest a comb of pollen on one 
side. The presence of this pollen below 
will induce the storage of more pollen 
at the same place, keeping the sections 
clear and for the storage of honey only. 



The Danzenbakep 20th Centupy Smokep 
Awarded Highest Prize 
A GOLD MEDAL 

At the World's Fair, 
St. Louis, 1904. 





IS THE BEST, 

STRONGEST, 

COOLEST, 

CLEANEST, 

CHEAPEST. 

AND LARGEST 

SMOKER SOLD 

FOR A DOLLAR 



It has a side grate that strengthens the tire-cup, and holds a 
rem ivable metal and asbestos lining that keeps it cool, adding to 
its durability. It has no valves to get out of order, or snout to 
CLOG WITH SOOT. 

ALL THAT IS CLAIMED.— Mr. N. P:. France, Platteville. Wis., 
the General Manager of the National Kee-keepers' Association: 

I have given your 20th Century Smoker a thorough trial. For 
durability, convenience in lighting, and long time one tilling will 
last, giving ample smoke, I find it all you claim. I shall want sev- 
eral in the spring, as I always want the best. 

SURPASSES ALL OTHERS.— Mr. Grant Stanley, Nesbit, Pa.: 

After giving the Danzenbaker 20th Century Smoker several 
trials, can say it surpasses all smokers it has been my liberty to 
try; it will not go out until the fuel is all consumed, and it produc- 
es a cool smoke, a feature very necessary in any ttrst-class smoker. 

BEST IN TWENTY YEARS.— M. D. Andes, Bristol, Tenn.: 

"I have used your 20th Century Smoker one season. It has giv- 
en me entire satisfaction. In my twenty years of bee-keeping I 
first used the old stand-by Clark smoker, and I believe I have tried 
all the different makes, as I am always looking for the best, and 
will say that your smoker beats them all up to date." 

NEVER TOO HOT TO HOLD.— Dr. Reginald Munson, Washington, 
D. C— "I am well pleased with the 20th Century Smoker. It keeps 
tire well without getting too hot to hold on continuous use, and 
makes smoke enough to satisfy the most critical." 

Price Daz^-ze* Largfe S^o-inch Smokers: 

Postpaid, one, $1.15; two, $2.10; three, $3.00; five, $4.50. 

By Express or freight— one, $1.00; six for $4.20. 
F. DANZENBAKER, Jamestown Exposition Sta . NORFOLK. VA. 
(Money-order Oflice, Norfolk, Va.) 



Lessons in 

Bee-keeping 



. BY. 

MAIL 



There is now, and has been for years, a greater demand for experi- 
enced bee-help than there are men ready for these places. Each 
winter and spring we are obliged to disappoint many large apiarists 
by telling them we do not know where suitable help can be found. 
We have found that many who take our course in bee culture by cor- 
respondence prefer to go into business for themselves, so we still 
need active young men who have a fair knowledge of the subject- 
men whom we know something about — who can be recommended for 
the places frequently offered. We have, therefore, determined to 
offer a limited course in 

Bee-keeping by Mail 

We shall designate this as course No. 2. The lessons are identical 
with lessons in course No. 1. The time, however, is limited to one 
year from enrollment. The course may be easily completed in thi-ee 
to four months. The following is the 

Outline of Course No, 2 

(seventeen lessons) 



I. 


Definitions of Terms. 


X. 


Preparing for Winter. 


II. 


Inmates of the Hive. 


XI. 


Wintering. 


in. 


Comb. 


XII. 


Spring Management. 


IV. 


Handling Bees. 


XIII. 


Bee-diseases, Symptoms. 


V. 


Transferring. 


XIV. 


Enemies of Bees. 


VI. 


Building up Colonies. 


XV. 


Establishing an Apiary. 


VII. 


The Honey-flow. 


XVI. 


Queen-rearing. 


VIII. 


. Swarming. 


XVII, 


. General Examination. 


IX. 


Rendering Normal. 







Terms of Course 



Complete course as outlined, lessons, personal answers to all 
questions, including the A B C of Bee Culture (500 pages), and 
Gleanings in Bee Culture (semi-monthly) for one year, $5.00. 

With either the A B C or Gleanings omitted in case you have 
one, $4.00. 

With both omitted in case you have both, $3.00. 

Satisfaction guaranteed. 

(Use form on following page.) 

The A. J. ROOT COMPANY 

MEDINA, OHIO 






















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THE ADVANTAGES OF BUYING 

Roofs 

Bee-keepers' Supplies 



Quality 

They are well made from good material. You 
are never disappointed or disgusted on receiving 
goods inaccurately cut, and roughly made, from 
inferior stock. 

Interchangeableness 

This accuracy with which goods are made al- 
lows a customer to order goods year after year, 
and each lot will fit the others as new parts fit in 
repairing an Elgin watch. 

Promptness 

With our- immense manufacturing facilities, the 
adoption of stan(iard goods, and the establishment 
of agencies and branch houses throughout the 
various parts of the country, we can get goods 
to you with wonderful promptness. 

Cost 

No goods of like quality are sold at lower prices 
than we sell them, while the shipping of them in 
car lots to the branch houses and agencies allows 
the customer to get them at factory prices within 
a short distance of his home. Send for a catalog 
and list of dealers, and save freight and time by 
ordering from your nearest dealer. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



002 842 263 b 



